*The LabelAfter toiling as an indie designer—and rock star favorite—in Los Angeles for a number of years, Rick Owens made a big jump by moving to Paris in 2003. There, he both oversees his own line, which is now manufactured out of Italy, and serves as Artistic Director of Revillon, the centuries-old luxury furrier. While he gets to work with decadent skins like swan’s-down for his Revillon gig, Owens’ own line remains true to his aesthetic: Minimalist palettes, dramatic structure. Though he’s often labeled as Goth by the press, Owens considers himself more of a “drama queen,” though not in an obvious way. “My look is about an appreciation of teenage angst without actually having the angst,” he has said in interviews, and compares his style to a Brancusi sculpture: ”(Just) a slab of metal on a hunk of wood, but it's about the right piece of metal, the right hunk of wood and the perfect gesture.”
*The Look
Glamour-meets-grunge. Asymmetrical dresses, fitted jackets and soft, slouchy knits are the hallmarks, though recent collections have been a little more structured—but never conceptual. “People just aren't going to come to me for a trend. People come to me for things that are a little poignant, a little broken,” Owens admits. For the most part, the clothes are functional, too, with the line featuring a lot of wearable separates for non-model bodies.
*The Designer
Born and raised in California, the long-haired, pumped-up Owens studied art at Parsons in LA before opting instead to take a two-year course on pattern-making. He then spent a number of years cutting patterns for knock-off and sportswear companies, before embarking on his own label. A strong reputation and following—both consumer and retail—led him to the attention of a group of Italian manufacturers, with whom he is now partners in his ever-growing company. On the side, Owens is Artistic Director for Revillon, the French fur brand founded in 1723. Owens won the CFDA Perry Ellis Award for Emerging Talent in 2002.
